
an older house
with
a thick door
trim,
or if the door has
sagged,
there
might
be
no way to locate the switch and its
magnet
within
their
working
separa-
tion distance.
In that case, use the
long magnetic switch
shown. Al-
though it's almost twice the cost
of the
smaller conventional
switch, it can
work within five inches of
its magnet.
The one from
Radio
Shack
is supplied
with several thick spacers that
can
resolve just about any
mounting prob-
lem you may come across.
If you have
included
any
interior
doors such as closets in the
alarm
loop, you might want some
way
to
bypass one or more so that you can
move around the
house freely, yet still
have the alarm
turned on. Or you
might
want
to bypass
the back door,
yet keep the rest
of the house pro-
tected.
Either way, it's done
with
switch assembly which is
wired
as
shown in Fig. 13. Just remember
that
the switch's on position means that
the bypass is
what's on.
A tiny 12 -volt buzzer can be
wired
near the door as a pre-alarm
to remind
anyone entering
that the alarm is
on
and must be turned off before
the
time -out elapses (up to
45 seconds). It
is a
decided asset, because it helps
avoid
waking the neighborhood
if
you
come home late at
night too tired to
remember to turn off the alarm.
Keypad entry
As shown in Fig. 14, the
pre-alarm
buzzer can be
mounted with
two
-
sided foam tape directly below a Ra-
dio Shack keypad
entry
switch; and
you
should
certainly consider using
a
keypad switch
that is located adjacent
to the entry door. The switch has
LED's that indicate when the loop is
ready (green), and when
the system
is
armed (red). The
user selects and can
change the code at any time. If some-
thing goes wrong with
the switch or
the system, unlike other keypad
switches
that lock out -leaving the
user
frantically
searching for the con-
trol center's key
that
will
turn
off
the
alarm
-the
Radio Shack unit defaults
to a factory code. The
combination
of
the * and
#
keys is also a panic
switch.
Unfortunately, Radio Shack does
not sell
a
surface- mounting
box
for
the
keyswitch.
Their mounting box
requires that
you chop a
relatively
large mounting hole in
the
wall; wir-
ing inside
the
wall
might prove diffi-
cult, and the landlord might not be
TO
OTHER
SENSORS
SEPIES
LOOP
SWITCH
MAGNET
DOOR
OR
WINDOW
BYPASS
SWITCH
FIG.
3 -THIS IS HOW
a
bypass
switch is
connected
to a door
"bug."
.a^a
FIG. 14 -IF YOU USE
A KEYPAD entry
switch,
you can tape
the
pre -alarm
buzzer
to the bottom of
the switch's surface
-
mounting box.
FIG. 15-A
STROBE
LIGHT mounted
on
the front of the house instantly tells the
neighbors
and
the
police
that it's
alarm that's
wailing.
your
FIG. 16-THE
LAST STEP is to install
the
backup
battery and
connect
the
AC power.
If
all went well, the
green loop light will
turn on and the
siren will
sound
when you
press
the test
switch.
thrilled at
the prospect of your moving
and leaving
a gaping hole behind.
Use
a surface- mounting
box instead, such
as a plastic
or a metal Wiremold
box
from your local electrical
-parts
store.
When your keypad switch is
com-
pleted,
you can
simply
enter your
code, then take up to 45 seconds
to
get out the
door.
The
system arms
long after you have safely
passed
through
the door. Same thing on
en-
try. You
enter, hear the buzzer, and get
up to 45
seconds to punch in the code
that turns off
the alarm. Any attempt
to tamper with
the keypad triggers
an
internal switch
that sets off the alarm.
Figure 15 shows
a
strobe
light
that
is mounted on the front of the house.
It
answers the question
"Whose alarm
is ringing ?"
by
flashing when the si-
ren
(or bell) goes
off
-so
anyone
within
earshot knows instantly
whose
home is under attack. Put the
strobe
light out in
the
open, as conspicuous
as is possible. Make certain that it's
not screened by one or more tall or
leafy trees.
Finally, as shown in Fig. 16, con-
nect the AC
power
and install the
backup
batteries.
If
all
went well,
the
siren should sound, and the strobe
should flash when you
press
the TEST
switch.
A wireless
system
Installing a
wireless system
isn't
all
that
different from
a
wired
system,
with
one major exception: You don't
have
to drill holes for fishing
wires
through walls
and ceilings.
Because
of that, installation is usually much
quicker. However, the considerations
for mounting sensors and the like re-
main very
much the same.
The
basic Dicon 9000 package that
we
chose for our sample installation
(Fig.
17) consists of a base unit, two
remote
door
/window
sensors
with
transmitters,
and an emergency
speaker /siren.
The sugested retail
price for the system is
under
$700.
Available accessories include
emer-
gency pendants, smoke
detectors,
temperature sensors, flood sensors,
remote keypads, and motion detec-
tors.
The 9000
is a
sophisticated system
with
up
to four security zones; it
can
dial up to
eight
telephone
numbers to
report an emergency,
and
it
can dial
them in
any order depending
on
the
emergency. For example, in
a
medical
emergency,
you
would want
your doc-
tor to be
called before the fire depart-
ment, yet
during a fire emergency,
your
doctor is the last person
you'd
want
to call- unless he lives next
door. Along with
a
voice-
synthesized
45
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